Located about 30 minutes by car from the Central Kawanishi City, the Kurokawa district is known for producing “kikusumi” (“chrysanthemum charcoal”), the highest quality charcoal used for tea ceremonies and other settings. Its name comes from its appearance; a cross-section cut reveals radiating cracks resembling chrysanthemum flowers. Kikusumi is made from the wood of the kunugi sawtooth oak tree. I participated in a walking tour to learn about the production of kikusumi and the surrounding satoyama.
Charcoal Kiln
Our tour began at “ Imanishi Kikusumi Honke,” a producer of kikusumi. We had the opportunity to learn about the production process while standing in front of an active charcoal kiln.
The kiln is 3.5 meters deep and 2.5 meters high, and it can burn up to six tons of raw wood at once. The process takes seven days, including cooling time, before the charcoal is ready for use. The most challenging part of the process is controlling the fire, which directly impacts the quality of the charcoal. By the time the charcoal is ready, the original six tons of wood are reduced to just one ton.
The charcoal we saw had the distinct flower-like cross-section that gives kikusumi its name.
The kunugi trees used for charcoal production are felled after ten years of growth, but they are not completely cut down. Instead, the trunks are harvested multiple times, as kunugi trees regenerate strong new shoots. After ten years, these shoots are ready for another round of harvesting. This results in uniquely shaped trees known as “daiba kunugi.”
In the Kurokawa district, deer damage has become a problem, as the new shoots of kunugi trees are soft and tasty for deer. To mitigate this, the locals have started cutting the branches at higher levels, out of reach of the deer.
The challenges of maintaining both charcoal production and the satoyama landscape were evident throughout the tour.
Walking Through the Kunugi Woodland
Next, we moved to a hill of kunugi trees. Normally, this area is off-limits, but we were granted special access as part of the tour.
As we walked through the hill, we could see the unique “daiba kunugi,” shaped by repeated harvesting. When branches are pruned 1-2 meters above the ground, the trunk thickens, but the upper branches remain thin. This distinctive form is rarely seen elsewhere. In this forest, many such trees grow, creating a stunning and unusual landscape.
The Kurokawa district has a well-maintained woodland, thanks to the cultivation of charcoal. While it’s said that many satoyama areas in Japan have been left to grow wild and unmanaged, this satoyama in Kurokawa is impressively organized.
The trees are harvested in sections rather than all at once, and the regeneration of new shoots happens at different rates across the forest. This creates a patchwork of colors during autumn, with each section showing different shades of foliage. This was once common throughout Japan, but now it can only be seen in places like Kurokawa.
Although it was December and the autumn leaves had nearly finished, we were lucky to have clear skies, making the walk through the unique trees very pleasant.
Tea Ceremony Experience at a Local Temple
After the walk, we made our way down to Tokurinji , a temple nestled in the Kurokawa district. We had the chance to experience a traditional tea ceremony in the main hall.
The charcoal used to boil the water for the tea ceremony was, of course, kikusumi. This kind of charcoal is prized for its minimal smoke, long-lasting heat, and beautiful appearance even after it has burned to ash. Therefore, it has been highly valued at tea ceremonies. We were amazed by how little smoke and scent there were in the indoor space, even though the charcoal was burning under the tea kettle. Looking at the tea kettle, the charcoal seemed to be burning strongly, and the water appeared to be boiling quickly.
When we examined the charcoal, we saw that it remained intact while turning white as it burned, a testament to the high quality of kikusumi.
After the tea ceremony, we enjoyed a refreshing cup of tea, which was the perfect end to the walk.
Through this experience of kikusumi production, I gained a deeper understanding of the rich satoyama landscape. Currently, access to the kunugi woodland requires participation in a tour, but regular events are held to share this unique experience with visitors.
att.JAPAN consists of members in their 20s and 30s, and we are all travel lovers. In addition to information about sightseeing and great dishes all over Japan, we offer a wide range of information about various subjects/topics, such as onsen (hot spring) and ryokan hotels. We introduce lots of information only att.JAPAN can offer, including information about famous sightseeing spots, the latest news about new facilities all over Japan and rare less-known areas in Tokyo, one-day model walking courses, and anime pilgrimages. We also offer contents to introduce Japan from the view of writers from abroad.
