Nara Prefecture was once the capital of Japan. In ancient times, this land was at the fulcrum of Japanese history. Even today, numerous historic sites remain, including architecture and Buddhist statues designated as National Treasures, and Important Cultural Properties. When visiting in person, not only the grandeur of such sites but also the region’s vibrant natural beauty makes a deep impression. Here is an introduction to Asuka, a place to feel history and romance.
The southern half of Nara Prefecture is in the Kii Mountain Range. In the region from Asuka to Yoshino, the mountains and plains intertwine. For roughly 100 years from the late 6th century to the end of the 7th century, Asuka was the center of Japan, and the place where continental culture first took root. Around the Yamato Sanzan mountains, the capital of Fujiwarakyo and other castle towns rose up while Buddhist culture flourished in the era known in art history as the “Asuka period.” The land of this illustrious history is now a rural area of idyllic scenery.
As a mountain lover, the scenery of Japan’s peaceful countryside known as “satoyama” is a sight that never fails to touch my heart. The slow flow of time under the wide open skies soothes my mind. If you feel up for it, a walk does wonders. In the pastoral setting around the National Asuka Historical Park and Tachibanadera Temple we feel the timeless nature of Japan’s original natural scenery as it once was long ago.
Climb the steep slope to reach Okadera Temple. The main figure of the seated Nyoirin Kannon is the oldest surviving example of this bodhisattva, and the largest clay Buddha statue in Japan (Important Cultural Property). The flowers in every season and the view from the temple are splendid.
From Amakashi Hill, the stunning view encompasses the Yamato Sanzan mountains and the ancient ruins of Fujiwarakyo and Asukakyo.
At the southern end of Asuka Village, known as Oku-Asuka, the three settlements of Inabuchi, Kayanomori, and Nyudani, near the source of the Asuka River, have been nationally designated as Important Cultural Landscapes. The changing forms of the rice terraces reflect the character of each season.
Bicycles are a great way to get around, but when you want to stop for a closer look or to take a break, dealing with what to do with the bike can be sometimes cumbersome. Since a spectacular fall two years ago, I have shied away from bicycles, so being able to reach the many sights of Asuka on foot is a true joy. I never tire of the scenery on such walks. Buses and on-demand rideshare services are also readily available which, combined with walking, opens options to cover greater distances.
Asuka Tour Bus (commonly known as “Kame Bus”)
1-day free pass (adult 750 yen)
Asuka on-demand rideshare service
500 yen/per person, 1 trip
Asuka is a treasure trove of ancient tombs and ruins, irresistible for lovers of ancient history. In antiquity, many tombs were built for emperors and nobility of the era. The Asuka period marked the end of the long history of Kofun tomb culture. Once a symbol of power, the shape of the massive keyhole-shaped tombs changed to a rectangular design, influenced by Chinese custom, and octagons that visually expressed a worldview revolving around the Emperor.。
The murals which adorn the burial mounds of Takamatsuzuka and Kitora are clear indications of the spread of thought and fine arts throughout East Asia. The Takamatsuzuka Tumulus became famous after the discovery of its vividly colored wall paintings, now designated as a National Treasure. Although the original murals cannot be viewed, visitors can see reproductions and reconstructed models of the brightly colored paintings at the Takamatsuzuka Mural Museum.
Also on display is the massive stone tumulus known as Ishibutai, built with gigantic boulders.
The Asuka Daibutsu (Great Buddha) at Asukadera Temple is famous as the oldest Buddha statue in Japan.
At the site of the Asuka Palace, a pivotal historical event took place in 645 which led to the downfall of the powerful Soga clan that had dominated the era.
cafe Kotodama
A cafe renovated from a 200-year-old former sake brewery residence, one of the oldest in Asuka.
The popular Kotodama lunch (1,760 yen, tax incl.) is packed with a wealth of delicious, locally sourced ingredients from Asuka Village, including fresh vegetables chosen at the farmer’s market every morning, local chicken, soy sauce, rice and much more.
The last time I visited Asuka was 30 years ago! My memories of that time are of the Ishibutai Tumulus, making flower crowns in the lotus fields, and cycling through the area. In my youth, I never realized that one of the true charms of Asuka is the healing power of its serene satoyama scenery.
Yoko— Former Editor-in-Chief of att.JAPAN
