Kameyama City, located in the north-central part of Mie Prefecture, is home to Sekijuku, an area where the townscape of an Edo-period (1603–1868) post town still remains, offering a rich and historical walking experience. Additionally, Iga City, located in the northwest, is well-known as the birthplace of ninjas, along with Koka City in Shiga Prefecture. However, Iga is also famous for its traditional craft, Iga ware pottery.
On this occasion, a member of the att. JAPAN editorial team joined a day-trip tour program hosted by Mie Prefecture. Through exploring Sekijuku and experiencing Iga ware pottery, I discovered the unique charms of Mie!
The Beginning of the Journey
After arriving at Nagoya Station by Shinkansen, I transferred to a train on the JR Kansai Line and headed toward Seki Station, the nearest station to Sekijuku. Along the way, we enjoyed the view from the train window, including the sight of the train running parallel to a Kintetsu train and the scenic mountains of the Suzuka Mountain Range. As part of this tour, a special train was used on a route that regular trains do not usually take. This drew the attention of many railway enthusiasts along the line, who eagerly pointed their cameras toward the passing train.
A special tour train, usually operated as the rapid train “Mie”
About 1 hour and 20 minutes after departing Nagoya, the train smoothly pulled into Seki Station.
Local residents welcoming tour participants at Seki Station
Welcomed warmly by the locals, we walked for about five minutes up a gentle slope from the station. Soon, a historic townscape that seemed to transport us back in time to old Japan came into view—this was the heart of Sekijuku.
Strolling Through the Historic Post Town of Sekijuku
The Streetscape of Sekijuku
Sekijuku was the 47th of the 53 stations of the Tokaido, the historic road connecting Edo (present-day Tokyo) and Kyoto during the Edo period. It once flourished as a key transportation hub for daimyo feudal lords’ processions during the sankin-kotai (alternate attendance system) and for pilgrims traveling to Ise Jingu. About 200 traditional machiya townhouses built 150 to 200 years ago line the 1.8 km stretch of Sekijuku, preserving the atmosphere of that era to this day. In 1984, Sekijuku was designated as a Nationally Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. Today, the historic buildings along the street are used as restaurants, souvenir shops, and craft stores. True to its heritage, the town is also home to museums and exhibition halls that introduce the local history and culture.
Our guide through the streets of Sekijuku was Mr. Hattori Kichiemon Aki, a cheerful and engaging volunteer guide with a warm smile. His unusual name reflects his lineage—he is a descendant of the famous Iga ninja leader Hattori Hanzo. Mr. Hattori now runs a traditional Japanese confectionery shop, which originally operated as a cover for ninja activities.
Mr. Hattori, a volunteer guide at Sekijuku
Seki no Yama Float Museum
Yama floats displayed behind glass
This facility showcases and introduces the floats (locally called “yama”) used in the local festival Sekijuku Gion Summer Festival. Visitors can view up close the tall, vertically structured floats, which are about four meters high.
Yama float model
The floats of Sekijuku are the origin of the phrase “Seki no Yama,” which means “the maximum limit,” referring to how the floats would completely block the width of the narrow streets during the festival. An artistic “Miokuri Maku” (rear curtain) is displayed on the back of the float. Since the narrow streets of the post town make it difficult to turn around, the top section of the float is designed to rotate, allowing it to change direction smoothly. The museum’s viewing area features videos with English subtitles, showing the floats being pulled through the festival streets and the top section rotating.
Seki no Yama Float Museum
Access: JR Seki Sta. → 6 min walk
Admission: Adults 300 yen, Students and Children 200 yen
(Common admission for three related facilities: Adults 500 yen, Students and Children 300 yen)
Opening Hours: 9:00–16:30
Closed: Mondays (or the following day if Monday is a national holiday), New Year holidays (December 29–January 3)
Website: https://www.kankomie.or.jp/spot/23557
Sekijuku Hatago Tamaya Historical Museum
This museum is housed in the restored building of the “Tamaya” inn, where travelers along the post road once stayed. The museum recreates scenes from the time when it operated as an inn, including a reception desk with mannequins and a tatami room set up with food trays, giving a vivid impression of life in the inn during that period.
Reception desk. The mannequin’s realistic texture adds to the experience.
The food trays and futon mattresses are set to faithfully convey the atmosphere of the inn.
In the back, there is also an annex.
Sekijuku Hatago Tamaya Historical Museum
Access: JR Seki Sta. → 10 min walk
Admission: Adults 300 yen, Students and Children 200 yen
(Common admission for three related facilities: Adults 500 yen, Students and Children 300 yen)
Opening Hours: 9:00–16:30
Closed: Mondays (or the following day if Monday is a holiday), New Year holidays (December 29 – January 3)
Website: https://www.kankomie.or.jp/spot/3195
Features of Architecture and Townscape
If you closely observe the roofs of the townhouses, you will find decorative elements such as carp and dragons. Craftsmen in the Edo period competed with one another to display their skills through these designs. Additionally, the roofs often feature elements that reveal the type of business conducted in the building.
Roof decorations
A shop selling pottery has the word “器” (pottery) on its roof.
There is also an area where buildings from different periods, including the Edo, Meiji, Taisho (1912–1926), and Showa (1926–1989) eras, stand side by side. This is one of the iconic sights of the historically rich Sekijuku.
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When we visited, it was just before the Doll Festival (Hina Matsuri), and decorative dolls were displayed throughout the streets, creating a festive atmosphere.
Display of various Hina dolls from different eras
A little away from the post road, there is a foot bath called “Koman no Yu,” which utilizes local hot spring water.
Koman no Yu foot bath
For lunch, we visited “Aizuya,” a former inn that has been renovated into a restaurant. We enjoyed a set meal featuring fresh vegetables okowa (steamed rice) cooked in a traditional stove with locally grown rice from Mie, along with warm soba noodles. The chewy texture of the freshly made rice and the refreshing scent of yuzu citrus in the soba were delicious.
Exterior of Aizuya
Fresh vegetables okowa and soba set meal
Aizuya
Access: JR Seki Sta. → 10 min walk
Hours: 11:00–17:00
Closed: Mondays (or the next business day if Monday is a national holiday)
Website：http://www.aizuya72.com/
As we left the restaurant, snow began to fall. The combination of the post town and the falling snow was enchanting, reminiscent of the world of ukiyo-e woodblock prints.
Snowfall in Sekijuku
As we left the restaurant, snow began to fall. The combination of the post town and the falling snow was enchanting, reminiscent of the world of ukiyo-e woodblock prints.
Experience the World of Iga Ware (Iga Ware Traditional Industry Hall)
Iga ware is known for its simple texture and distinctive beauty, characterized by distortions and burn marks. It is said that even warlords of the 17th century were fond of this pottery. At the Iga Ware Traditional Industry Hall, located in an area dotted with kiln workshops, a variety of Iga ware masterpieces, both large and small, are on display, and visitors can also learn about the manufacturing process.
The hall offers Iga ware capsule toys (Iga-Yaki gacha), where for 500 yen per turn, you can receive small items like saucers or chopstick rests wrapped in paper. If you’re lucky, you might even get a potted plant along with the pottery! Larger items, which don’t fit into the capsule, have a paper inside with the product name instead. This capsule toy became popular after being featured on a TV program, and according to the staff, some visitors come specifically for the Iga ware gacha.
Iga-Yaki gacha
Example of an Iga-Yaki gacha
At the pottery experience workshop (reservation required), with the support of a master potter, you can create your own unique piece of Iga ware. Since this is a special opportunity, I decided to challenge myself and try making Iga ware!
Challenging Iga ware creation!
I took an appropriate amount of Iga clay from the 1kg block and started by making a plate. I flattened the clay with my palms, then trimmed the excess using a wooden knife to shape it. Although the edges became uneven, the teacher kindly reassured me, saying, “That’s part of its charm.”
I made plates and a mug
To use up all the clay, I also made a mug and a small plate that could be used for soy sauce. It takes about a month for the pieces to be fired and finished. The completed pottery can also be mailed to you.
Iga Ware Traditional Industry Hall
Access: JR Iga-Ueno Sta. → 25 min by car
Business Hours: 9:00–17:00
Closed: Mondays (the following day if Monday is a national holiday), New Year holidays (December 29 – January 3)
Pottery Class Fees (Example): 2,750 yen (Hand-building course with 1kg of clay)
Website: http://www.igayaki.or.jp/?page_id=23
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After enjoying the pottery experience, we headed to Iga-Ueno Station and waited for our train back to Nagoya. True to the ninja heritage of Iga, the station itself is decorated with ninja designs in various places.
Editor’s Note
Through the historic buildings and traditional crafts, I was able to fully experience the way people lived in the past and their unique sense of beauty. Additionally, the rich displays, materials, and well-preserved townscapes are all a testament to the passion of the local people who are dedicated to preserving and passing on these traditions. Why not embark on a journey in Mie to deepen your connection with Japan’s history and culture?
I am from Shizuoka, with Mount Fuji in the background. I lived in Korea for four years and in China for 11 years. I majored in literature for my undergraduate and graduate degrees. I love strolling around in a city, listening to pop music, taking a ride in trains and cars, and visiting observatories in high-rise buildings. I have a sweet tooth.
