Hyogo Prefecture is running the “Hyogo Field Pavilion” program, inspired by EXPO 2025. This initiative highlights sustainable practices in the local history and culture, with local people sharing its unique charms. Through hands-on activities at various locations, you can learn while having fun! One such is “Discover the Roots of Carbonated Springs and Hot Spring Town,” a certified program in Takarazuka City.
Speaking of “Takarazuka,” you might probably think of the famous Takarazuka Revue. However, beyond the theater, Takarazuka is a leisure hub in the Kansai region, offering an amusement park, hot springs and other attractions. Although the area has transformed into residential neighborhoods over the years, you can still find hot spring facilities, hotels, and local specialties that carry on its rich heritage.
A short walk brings you to the Nature Spa Takarazuka, a drop-in hot spring facility designed by the renowned architect Ando Tadao. Here, you can soak in two types of Takarazuka’s signature baths: the golden-brown Kinpo-sen and the crystal-clear Ginpo-sen.
You can still see carbonated water bubbling up today. If you go under Horaibashi Bridge, you can watch it emerge from the riverbed.
I spoke with Mr. Matoba, who has been making Tansan senbei for many years while watching the ever-changing landscape of the hot spring town. He also kindly gave me a behind-the-scenes look at the production process. According to Mr. Matoba, the peak of the town’s vibrancy was in 1970, during the first Osaka Expo. In the evenings, the streets were bustling with geisha entertainers heading to banquet halls in the inns, numbering at least 200 in those days. The town was so lively that even taxis were overflowing, busy with transporting guests after the banquets.
Mr. Matoba also showed me the process of making Tansan senbei. While these crackers are sold at department stores and other locations, all of them are made right here. The process involves pouring the batter onto an iron mold, pressing it from both sides to cook evenly, and baking six crackers at a time. Since the six crackers are initially connected, they are lightly pressed through a roller next to the iron mold to separate them into individual pieces. The edges are trimmed, and the crackers are complete.
At the inner space of the lobby, a large Wilkinson panel catches your eye. The year 2024 marks the 120th anniversary since the launch of the product under the name “Wilkinson Tansan,” and the panel is on display for a limited time. Next to it, there is a model recreating the hot spring town as it looked about 130 years ago, also on display for a limited time. Another striking feature is a stone monument holding water. This valuable artifact was discovered by chance during construction on the site of the former Tansan Hotel.
There are other items related to carbonated drinks as well. I was shown the label of “Wilkinson Tansan” in the guest-only lounge on the second floor. Originally, Wilkinson Tansan was mostly produced for export, and the label featured a design of a Buddhist Nio guardian statue, which is distinctly Japanese. It seems that at the time, the carbonated water was marketed with the concept of “strengthening the stomach like the powerful Nio.”
When you go up to the eighth floor, where the panoramic bath is located, you will find an impressive sign that says “Takarazuka Onsen.” This sign was originally displayed in the hot spring area. It was washed away in a flood in 1897 but was later rediscovered. Now, as a symbol of the hot spring district’s revitalization, it is still preserved as a valuable piece of history. Additionally, along the corridor leading to the common bathing area, photos of the old hot spring town are on display.
At the hotel, you can enjoy the clear “Ginpo-sen” hot spring water. Drop-in bathing is also available. As a souvenir, bath salts replicating the brown, cloudy “Kinpo-sen” water, called “Takarazuka no Yu,” are also sold.
