“Have you ever been to Kumano?” asked my friend who lives in Shingu City, Wakayama Prefecture. “It’s far from Tokyo, but once people see what it offers, they fall in love and often come back again and again. I’d love to show you around, so please come and visit.”
How could I refuse such an invitation? Actually, about 10 years ago, I visited places like Kumano Hongu Taisha and Nachi Waterfall, but regretfully, at that time I had to rush through them. The deep forests and mountain scenery left a lasting impression, and I had always wanted to return at a more leisurely pace. So, when this chance came, I felt it was fate, and decided to return to Kumano this summer.
Traditional boat ride
Kumano, where Shingu City is located, lies in the southern region of the Kii Peninsula. Surrounded by endless mountains and sea, this remote area is enveloped in the majesty and mystery of nature, exuding the sacred presence of deities and spirits. In 2004, the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes, the Three Grand Shrines (Kumanao Sanzan) of the region and other sacred places were registered as UNESCO World Heritage sites. One unique feature is that part of the Kumano River forms the only “river pilgrimage route” in the world. Recently, this traditional boat ride, once used by members of the imperial family and other nobility on pilgrimages to the region, has been revived and is gaining popularity.
The Kumano-gawa River Boat Tour is a river cruise in a small wooden boat reminiscent of those once used on pilgrimages 1,200 years ago.
(Kumanogawa Kawabune Center at the Dorokyokaido Kumanogawa Roadside Station → Gongen Kawara near Kumano Hayatama Taisha, 90 minutes. By reservation only. Operation suspended from Dec. to Feb.)
For inquiries, contact the Kumanogawa Kawabune Center at 0735-44-0987.
Access
Access to the boarding point is via the Kumano Gobo Nankai Bus Kawatake Line, stopping at Michi no Eki Kumanogawa
Doro-kyo Gorge Tour
During this trip, I took another cruise in Shingu—the Doro-kyo Gorge Tour. Doro-kyo is a magnificent gorge that touches Nara, Wakayama, and Mie prefectures, designated by Japan as a Special Place of Scenic Beauty. Wooden boats were introduced for river cruises in 2022.
Wearing life jackets and straw hats, we boarded the boat.
The tour takes you through breathtaking landscapes, including towering cliffs, bizarre rock formations, caves, and waterfalls. I couldn’t stop snapping photos of the dynamic scenery.
Breathtaking views unfolding one after another.
The Kumano River flows through Nara, Wakayama, and Mie prefectures. Here, we are approaching the point where the borders of these three prefectures meet.
Actually, until the day before, a typhoon had been forecast to hit the area, raising concerns that the cruise would be suspended, but fortunately, the boat cast off on schedule. The river was a gorgeous emerald green, but the boatman remarked with some regret, “It’s usually much clearer.”
The skilled, experienced boatman, who guided the tour while steering the vessel.
Doro-kyo Gorge Tour (Tamaki-guchi Satellite → Doro-kyo: Round trip 40 minutes, closed Mondays, reservations required). For inquiries, contact the Kumanogawa Kawabune Center at 0735-44-0987.
Access
Boarding point access: JR Shingu Sta. → 36 min by bus → Hitari stop → 30 min by Kumanogawacho Demand Taxi (reservations required, flat fare of 100 yen) → Tamaki-guchi
Exploring Shingu City
Shingu City is home to numerous World Heritage sites. Here, everyday scenery is steeped in mystery, where modern times are woven into ancient eras of myth and legend. I was eager to explore this intriguing place.
First, I visited Kumano Hayatama Taisha, one of the Three Great Shrines of Kumano, located near the mouth of the Kumano River. It is the head shrine of all Kumano shrines in Japan.
Nearby, is the antique store Toraya, specializing in traditional folk utensils. With jazz in the background and several reasonably priced items, this cozy shop is a delightful place to stop by for some shopping.
Coasters made from recycled kimono and obi fabric make great casual souvenirs.
Next was Kamikura Shrine. Standing on a nearly 80-meter-high cliff, this sacred ground enshrines the gigantic Gotobiki-iwa Rock, said to be where the deities of Kumano descended from the heavens. Climbing the steep 538 stone steps was challenging, but coming down was even scarier.
After descending, I found myself at Naka Kori shop. The kakigori (shaved ice) here is made from “pure ice” crafted from the clear waters of the Koza River. The finely shaved ice doesn’t give you a brain freeze, and was wonderfully refreshing after working up a sweat.
Matcha Milk Kintoki shaved ice at Naka Kori shop
The Oto Matsuri is an annual festival held at Kamikura Shrine on February 6. Around 2,000 men dressed in white robes run down the steep 538 stone steps in the darkness, holding torches. These fiery torches streaming down like a blazing waterfall makes for an awe-inspiring fire festival that I hope to attend someday.
Shingu’s cuisine
When it comes to Shingu’s cuisine, mehari-zushi, sanma-zushi, and Kumano beef are well-known, but also here are fresh sashimi, dishes of locally raised poultry, Chinese cuisine, Wakayama ramen, and much more. With the sea, mountains, and rivers all around, Shingu is an endless treasure trove of ingredients where every bite is a true delight.
Mehari-zushi
Wakayama Ramen
Hayami
This Wakayama ramen with a soy sauce and pork bone broth, follows the original recipe from Ide Shoten, the shop that made Wakayama ramen famous nationwide.
Access
From Tokyo Haneda Airport → 70 min flight → Nanki Shirahama Airport → Airport Bus → JR Shirahama Sta. → 2 hr by Ltd. Express Kuroshio → Shingu Sta. JR Tokyo Sta. → 1 hr 40 min by Shinkansen → Nagoya Sta. → 3 hr 30 min by Ltd. Express Nanki → Shingu Sta. Omiya/Ikebukuro/Shinjuku/Yokohama → Highway Bus (8 hr 30 min – 10 hr 55 min) → Shingu Sta. From Kyoto/Osaka JR Kyoto Sta. → 30 min by Rapid Train → Shin-Osaka Sta. → 4 hr 20 min by Ltd. Express Kuroshio → Shingu Sta. Kansai Airport → 13 min by JR Rapid Train → Hineno Sta. → 3 hr 20 min by Ltd. Express Kuroshio → Shingu Sta.
Endless charms of Kumano
The vastness of the Kumano area offers endless sights to explore. One of the highlights is the Kumano Kodo, a sacred pilgrimage route and hiking trail that attracts travelers from around the world. Though its mysterious pull may be unfathomable, the ancient road draws us deeper into the forest paths. The Kumano Kodo is made up of six, completely unique routes, so visitors can learn about each one and choose their own path.
One popular route traveled by countless pilgrims for centuries is the Nakahechi, connecting Tanabe to Kumano Hongu Taisha. This typically takes two to three days, with hikers staying at inns or guesthouses along the way. Since the route involves long, steep paths, thorough preparation suitable for mountain hiking is essential. “Spring and autumn are crowded with visitors, and summer is hot and humid. For a quieter walk along the ancient paths, winter is recommended,” said Mr. Takeda, Executive Director of the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau (contact: 0739-26-9025).
In Kii-Katsuura, you will find Kumano Nachi Taisha, one of the Three Great Shrines of Kumano, and Nachi Falls, one of Japan’s three most famous waterfalls and the tallest in the country, with an uninterrupted drop of 133 meters.
Among Wakayama’s many renowned hot springs, Katsuura Onsen stands out as the largest in southern Wakayama. Just a five-minute boat ride from Katsuura Port brings us to Kumano-bettei NAKANOSHIMA, a tranquil hotel on an island surrounded by deep blue waters. Bathing in the open air with breathtaking sea views right before your eyes is a liberating experience.
Kumano Gobo Nankai Bus offers regular sightseeing bus tours that visit Kumano’s World Heritage sites, a convenient way to explore the region. There are two options: a half-day tour for those wanting a more time-efficient itinerary and a full-day tour covering all three Kumano Sanzan shrines. For inquiries, contact Kumano Gobo Nankai Bus at 0735-22-5101.
Extra Edition: Tamaki Shrine (Nara Prefecture)
“If you go to Shingu, be sure to visit Tamaki Shrine if possible,” several people told me, “it’s not a place easily reached.” Located at an elevation of 1,076 meters near the summit of Mount Tamaki in Totsukawa Village of Nara Prefecture is one of Japan’s oldest shrines. It flourished as a major site of Shugendo, a spiritual discipline that combines elements of Shinto and Buddhism. Walking through the deep forested grounds, I could feel the spirituality of this ancient sacred site. As the saying goes, this mystical spot is a place “only those called by the deities can reach.”
From the parking lot, I gazed at the mountain ridgeline. Suddenly, a beam of light broke through the clouds.
One of Japan’s past emperors, Go-Shirakawa (1127-1192), is known to have made 34 pilgrimages (some say 33) to Kumano. Although I may never rival this number, the feeling struck me as I headed home that I, too, would return someday.
As former editor-in-chief of att.JAPAN, she has traveled all over Japan, rediscovering the charm of the country. She is especially moved by the sight of mountain ranges, which always stir her heart.
