Located in Shinonsen Town, in northern Hyogo Prefecture, Yumura Onsen is one of the leading hot spring destinations in the Tajima region, alongside the famous Kinosaki Onsen. This unique area showcases the lifestyle of local people who have made the most of the hot springs. Yumura Onsen offers a deeper, more immersive hot spring experience compared to Kinosaki Onsen.
To reach Yumura Onsen via public transportation:• From Kinosaki Onsen, take the JR San’in Line to Hamasaka Station, a journey of about one hour, then transfer to a bus for approximately 30 minutes.
• From Kyoto or Osaka, take the JR San’in Line to Yoka Station, and then a bus ride of about 1 hour and 20 minutes will bring you to Yumura Onsen.
• There are also direct highway buses available from Osaka and Kobe.For travelers from Tokyo, Tottori Airport is a convenient option. From the airport, Yumura Onsen is approximately a one-hour drive by rental car.
Yumura Onsen is said to have been discovered approximately 1,200 years ago. Its main spring, called “Arayu”, gushes out 470 liters of 98 degrees Celsius hot water per minute. With abundant hot water and over 70 spring sources, Yumura Onsen is not only a destination for tourism but also a vital part of local life.
We spoke with Mr. Asano Yasumasa, the chairman of the Yumura Onsen Tourism Association, who guided us through the onsen town and shared insights about its significance.
At the heart of Yumura Onsen is Arayu, around which foot baths and other amenities have been developed. Thanks to the 98 degrees Celsius water, visitors can enjoy unique experiences like boiling eggs and vegetables on-site, a popular activity known as the “yugaki (boiling) experience.”
Recently, creative uses of the hot spring have emerged, such as making egg sandwiches or even crafting fresh caramel by boiling condensed milk for about six hours. Mr. Asano let us try the caramel, which was delightfully smooth and creamy—a surprising treat that can only be made here!
Beyond tourism, Yumura Onsen plays a vital role in the daily lives of the local residents. According to Mr. Asano, the abundance of hot water allows for affordable distribution to individual households, which sets Yumura apart from many other onsen towns. Many homes have dedicated hot spring taps alongside regular water taps. The high-temperature water is also used for heating systems and preparing food, eliminating the need for gas in some cases.
Historically, people even used the hot spring for washing clothes near Arayu. During our stroll, we encountered a local acquaintance of Mr. Asano fetching hot spring water for cooking. He explained that tofu boiled in the hot spring water makes exceptionally delicious yudofu (boiled tofu).
Yumura Onsen offers more than just bathing—it provides a glimpse into a lifestyle deeply integrated with its natural hot spring resources.
For this trip, I stayed at “Yusen no Yado Yuamu,” a ryokan with a warm and inviting Japanese-modern aesthetic that is especially popular among female guests.
The room I stayed in was a “Japanese-Modern Twin”—it featured Western-style beds but with traditional tatami flooring, allowing guests to relax barefoot. Other room options include private open-air onsen baths for a more exclusive experience.
The large public baths also have open-air baths, and the well-stocked amenities in the changing area add a touch of convenience and comfort. After soaking in the hot spring and unwinding, it was time for dinner. I had a delightful multi-course meal featuring the local Tajima beef. Each dish was served individually, with meticulous attention to both taste and presentation, making it a feast for the eyes as well as the palate.
The highlight was the Tajima beef cooked on a ceramic plate, which guests can grill to their preferred level of doneness. The menu featured an abundance of local ingredients, leaving me thoroughly satisfied. In winter, guests can also enjoy a course featuring Matsuba crab, adding seasonal variety to the experience.
After enjoying a breakfast also with plenty of ingredients from the San’in region, I checked out and headed to learn more about Tajima beef in the morning.
Tajima Pasture Park is a facility featuring a restaurant, an animal interaction area, and even skiing during winter. It is located about a 15-minute drive from Yumura Onsen and is also accessible by bus. Within the park, I visited the Tajima Beef Museum.
Did you know that 99% of all Japanese black wagyu cattle nationwide trace their lineage back to Tajima beef? Originally, cattle in this area were used for farm work and were cherished like family members. The Tajima region has a long history of careful breeding and maintaining pure bloodlines. Around 1900, Japan’s first cattle registry was established here, and strict measures were taken to ensure that the Tajima breed remain pure, prohibiting crossbreeding with cattle from outside Hyogo Prefecture. It is said that almost 100% of Japanese black wagyu cattle can be traced back to Tajima cattle, as calves raised in the Tajima region are distributed and bred across the country.
The museum showcases the history of Tajima beef, including exhibits that recreate the lives of farming families who lived alongside cattle. It also features displays about the world-renowned Kobe beef, which comes from Tajima cattle raised in Hyogo Prefecture. Only those cattle with exceptionally high-quality meat can earn the Kobe beef designation, and the museum provides insight into the strict standards required.
At the Tajima Pasture Park, visitors can also tour the barns where Tajima cattle are raised (Note: Entry is not allowed within one week of arriving in Japan from overseas). From June to October, the slopes that serve as winter ski grounds are used for grazing Tajima cattle, offering a unique sight of the cattle roaming freely.
Located near Yumura Onsen, Tajima Beef Restaurant Kaede is a spot where you can enjoy teppanyaki-style Tajima beef.
The menu offers a variety of cuts, including sirloin and misuji (brisket), prepared on the teppan grill. For lunch, there are relatively affordable set meals, such as the “Premium Tajima Beef Yakiniku Set” (3,300 yen, tax included), which features Tajima beef loin.
While I had enjoyed Tajima beef the previous evening, knowing the history and the dedication of the people who raise these cattle made the meal even more memorable. This restaurant near the onsen town is a convenient and highly recommended spot for savoring Tajima beef.
